Commonwealth Network
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IN DEPTH: Indian Garment Export Industry |
 Tribal women from Rajasthan, India, in traditional attire. |
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f your books about India tell you that India is one of the largest exporters of tea, jute and tobacco, and that's it... get yourself a real education: India also happens to be one of the biggest players in the international fashion arena, in fabric sourcing for fashion wear.  Urban girl dressed in designer Banarasi Saree. |
The borrowing of traditional Indian concepts does not end
here, what with vests made of kantha and mirror-work,
appliques, screen prints and sequin-work evening wear being hot
buys this coming fashion season.
As for the market for fabrics, the variety available in India can
leave the buyer impressed but confused. A key determining factor
in the selection of fabrics is the current "fashion
movement" in the international market. For instance, the
recent "eco-friendly", politically correct
"natural" wave saw fabrics like pure cottons, linens
and silks from India being lapped up by fashion trendsetters the
world over.
Much of the manufacturing activity for this takes place in parts
of the world you would never even have heard of, like the small
town of Chapa, in the eastern state of Bihar, where fabric
production is a family industry. The variety and quality of raw
silks churned out here belie the crude production methods and
equipment used - tussars, matka silks, phaswas,
you name it, they can make it.
Surat, in the state of Gujarat, far to the west, is the source
for an amazing array of jaquards, moss crepes and georgette
sheers - all fabrics used to create those dazzling
silhouettes seen on the ramps of the hottest fashion shows the
world over.
Another Indian fabric design that has practically made fashion
history is the "madras check" - originally used for the
ubiquitous "lungi", a simple lower body wrap
worn in southern India, this pattern has now made its way on to
bandannas, blouses, bags, home furnishings, and practically
anything else you can think of!
Of late, designers like Jean-Paul Gaultier have been increasingly
using Indian fabrics, designs and cuts to enhance their western
wear fashion collections. The Paris-based designer duo, Didier
Lecoanet and Hemant Sagar, have used a lot of Benares Brocade in
their Spring/Summer Collection recently unveiled in New
Delhi for a select audience. There is a trend in the making
here...
Forget Louis Feraud or Paul Smith, ethnic Indian design is in,
and not just in India - whether it be a batik cravat, a
tie-and-dye T-shirt, or a vegetable dye block-print skirt. So
don't blink if you see a Donna Karan creation in a Madras check,
or spot Naomi Campbell in a brocade jacket with a Kantha
skirt to match... Talk about making a fashion statement!
Meeta Chopra
is working on her Masters degree in International Business at the Indian Institute of Foreign Trade, after working with a documentary film maker and one of India's top 3 advertising agencies. She is an expert commentrator on international trade trends in the fashion and garment industries.